Prusa mini clone

For me, build volume is not a major factor. I want to make functional things, boxes, brackets, clips etc. Also it must be quiet enough to work next to it and to leave it running over night. This machine is dreadfully noisey, partial solution is dampers and smoothers but only real fix is Trinamatic drivers so something like Duet or Creality 1. So having done a ton of work, risked stuffing up you printer, you've saved E80 and you have a machine with a hotter hotbed gooda colder nozzle bad and an X axis that is slightly wobbly very bad.

What you don't have is flex magnetic surface, Ethernet, great support, 32 bit motherboard, microswitchless end stops, Wifi and much easier firmware upgrade no need to recompile Marlin to suit your mods via Ethernet or USB.

Also you get a slicer free with tweaked settings. Note Times are obviously a wild guesses. If somebody who has actually done those mods to a Ender3 would like to take a more realistic pass at price and manhours for a first time user I'd be interested in the results. I had previously wanted to add an extruder to convert my mini CNC mill to 3D printer but I don't have the time to do it or to upgrade a cheap printer.

Same here. I ordered the mini because as a hobbyst the original i3 was a little bit expensive. The mini comes at a great price, plus its dimensions and its silent operation makes it ideal for an in-house lab. Last thing that made me choose the mini is all the lost time configuring things like hotbed, proper feeder, and buggy software. I just hope that the prints are as good as the ones I see coming out of an i3. At this price point bucks, with filament sensor, I don't get which kind of Prusa customer - existing or previously prospective - would consider this a bad deal this machine is an absolute no-brainer if the print quality is on par with the MK3S.

Which still has to show. I'm concerned about the bowden system in regard to Flex printing and the cantilevered axis in regard to print accuracy. I am pretty sure chinese cheapo replacement part manufacturers will quickly produce those custom hotend parts as well. Due to it being compatible with E3D nozzles, those are already covered.

And judging by the photos and videos it looks like heater cartridge and thermistor are standard ones - or at least the same models as for the MK3S - so there's an abundance of cheap replacements for those parts as well. There are not many alternate 3D printers with a lower price point that come anywhere close to the ease of use of a Prusa machine which is one thing I am absolutely not concerned about. The magnetic flexible PEI build plate alone is a killer.

If the CoreXY ends up being in the price range they target it is not that much more expensive than the existing i3 if you look at the prices you pay for a Raise3D. Now I can only talk about my own needs here, but for a print I will either need a large build volume - preferably with special features such as multiple extruders, direct drive for printing Flex, or high temp for specialty materials - or the throughput of an array of small inexpensive printers like the Mini.

But usually not both at the same time. The i3 will be sitting right in the middle of those two extremes, offering a bit of both but being a master in neither. MMU is crap if you actually want to use different materialsnot just different colors of the same material and brand, so that doesn't even count as special feature for me.

prusa mini clone

And I think this pool of people is also the kind that wants to spend as little as possible first and foremost, so the i3 won't fare too well in their personal market analysis. Perhaps I am mis-estimating the proportions a bit, but I have no doubt that the Mini and CoreXY combined will massively cannibalize the i3 sales. Maybe it'll still be enough to keep production going, but after both those new printers are out I am sure demand for the i3 will drop a lot even after the initial hype is over.

Just sucks that I have stocked up on MK3S specific replacement partsDespite this fact, some users especially beginners can sometimes run into various difficulties during the printing process.

Such problems are usually caused by improper configuration or just by a random accident. We have compiled a list of five more-or-less common issues you can theoretically encounter with your 3D printer. This is by far the most common 3D printing problem, and probably the first one you may encounter. The first layer is the essential one as it is the base of the printed object.

Why I'm buying a Mini

Most of the time you will not be able to start the printing process, or the printed objects may continue to constantly detach from the print surface. Layer shifting is an error which causes some of the layers to shift from their designated positions. It is usually associated with improper movement of an axis, leading the extruder head to be misaligned mid-printing without any notice.

In other words, there is at least one layer which is not properly aligned. You may experience layer shifts in different axis movements. To troubleshoot the issue correctly, it is crucial to diagnose to which axis it is happening.

To clarify, check out the photo below which demonstrates three different kinds of layer shifts. Troubleshooting itself is the same for both axes. Stringing usually appears if your print settings are not accurate, while you are printing complex objects such as Moon city or multiple objects at once. Keep in mind that some filaments, such as PETG or flexible filamentsmay be stringy even with perfect print settings. In the photo below, you can see an extreme case of stringing. It usually happens after most of the printing is complete.

The so-called spaghetti monster is a perfect example of this. What usually happens is that the printed object detaches from the print bed mid-printing, and the remaining layers stop sticking to the object.

The other common source of this problem may be an error within the STL object. Extruder blob is one of the worst printing problems you might face with your 3D printer. Unlike the spaghetti monster, this issue occurs earlier in the process, usually during the initial 5 minutes of the print. The first layer becomes detached and covers the nozzle, while the extruder keeps extruding and the blob grows and grows, leaving you with a non-working printer. However, it is quite tricky to clear it after it happens.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.

If nothing happens, download GitHub Desktop and try again. If nothing happens, download Xcode and try again. If nothing happens, download the GitHub extension for Visual Studio and try again.

This repository includes source code and firmware releases for the Original Prusa 3D printers based on the bit ARM microcontrollers. In the case you already cloned the repository without the --recurse flag, run git submodule update --init. The binaries are then going to be stored under. The build process of this project is driven by CMake and build. As most modern IDEs support some kind of CMake integration, it should be possible to use almost any editor for development.

Below are some documents describing how to setup some popular text editors. If you want to contribute, make sure to install pre-commit and then run pre-commit install within the repository.

This makes sure that all your future commits will be formatted appropriately. Our build server automatically rejects improperly formatted pull requests. To install custom firmware, you have to break the appendix on the board. Skip to content. Dismiss Join GitHub today GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Sign up. Branch: master.

Find file. Sign in Sign up. Go back. Launching Xcode If nothing happens, download Xcode and try again.GitHub is home to over 40 million developers working together. Join them to grow your own development teams, manage permissions, and collaborate on projects. Prusa Web interface resources. Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform.

Original Prusa SL1 3D printer firmware. Prusa3D specific settings for the Slic3r Prusa Edition. Web user interface library for Buddy hardware boards. Prusa Hackaton repository.

Building the cheapest possible Prusa i3 MK2

Original Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer printed parts. Prusa edition of STKv2 bootloader. Board definitions for Arduino compatible boards manufactured by Prusa Research.

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Original Prusa i3 MK3 Review - Best 3D Printer of its class?

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Reload to refresh your session.Display all pictures. More info. The leadtime for new orders is weeks. Availability date:. Tweet Share Pinterest. The minimum purchase order quantity for the product is 1. Add to cart. Add to wishlist. The new sensor is using the optical sensor which is triggered by a simple mechanical lever. Thanks to completely reworked extruder changing the nozzle or PTFE tube is easier than ever before.

As a bonus, the nozzle and the extruder motor is much closer to the X axis, this means less resonance and better prints too. MK3S is also better for printing from flexible materials. MK3S includes all the cumulative upgrades from the entire life cycle of the MK3 like genuine Gates beltstextile sleeves, a new Einsy case for easier Raspberry Pi connection, an anti-rust coating on smooth PEI sheets and, of course, dozens of firmware and plastic parts enhancements.

The MK3S features a rebuilt extruder, numerous sensors, and various smart features. Dozens of various tweaks and upgrades improve the reliability and ease of use. Below, you can see some of the many 3D printer awards Prusa Research received.

With the MK3S we are introducing the reworked Y axis from aluminum extrusion. It provides the same rigidity as some other printers while providing the sleek look of our milled Dural frame. The frame is also optimized to add 10 mm of Z height totaling at mm. In normal mode, we have also increased the travel speed. MK3S will save you! The printer can fully recover from the loss of power. It detects power interruption and shuts down the heatbed and extruder heating.

After restoring the power, you can continue with printing. With MK3S we are introducing a completely reworked extruder with a new filament sensor. You can say goodbye to ugly prints!

prusa mini clone

It grips the filament from both sides, increasing the push force and making the printer more reliable.What is the cheapest possible, real 3D printer you can buy without making one compromise after the other? This page will serve as a hub for part lists and build guides as the project moves along! All build videos and the accompanying project videos have been organized into a neat playlist!

Each of these parts were picked for a reason — be it because they are better than the alternatives, or, as expected, simply cost less than anything else. The cutting template is attached at the bottom of the page, a. The fasteners have been adapted to work with a thicker frame and to make use of the alternative components used in this build. Where possible, they should still be compatible with the original parts. Also based on the original MK2 files, but modified for the parts suggested for this build.

These parts are attached at the bottom of this page! With the standard and modified parts, you should be able to build a 3D printer capable of printing its own upgrades. The following parts are non-essential addons, like an LCD mount or bed probe protector. While these can be a starting point, there are plenty of alternative parts and upgrades available on Thingiverse and Youmagine!

Stay tuned as we move on with the build of the super-cheap Prusa i3 MK2. This page will get updated as progress is made! Skip to content What is the cheapest possible, real 3D printer you can buy without making one compromise after the other? Electronics and extruder Each of these parts were picked for a reason — be it because they are better than the alternatives, or, as expected, simply cost less than anything else. Part Qty needed extruder-body. Part Qty needed Z-nut holdah x4. STL 1 x-end-motor new endstops x1.

STL 2, for mm smooth rods 0, for mm smooth rods y-motor new endstops x1. STL 1. Part Qty needed LCD-cable-clip. No brace. File size: KB Downloads: Alu frame dxf Originally made from 6mm aluminum, but also works for wooden frames. Fully featured replacement and usable with the Original MK2 design! Use these corners in the rear of the machine and let the rods overhang.

Printable 3D models

You can support me without spending a single penny! Build your own Arduino-controlled camera slider! Autoleveling on 3D printers: 9 myths and 12 sensors tested! We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Ok Read more. Mechanical endstop boards. Reprap heated bed aluminum. Heated bed. Heated bed temperature sensor.

prusa mini clone

RAMPS 1.Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 0 guests. Home Forums 3D Printing Software. The original firmware is setup for the mini rambo- ramps uses different pins and doesn't have digipots for stepper current. That means that the "quiet mode" vs "power mode" won't work at all. I've put the work in to port v3. The MKS boards are a better bet because they have an extra output mosfet which is used to drive the extruder fan; if you use a real RAMPS you'll have to just hardwire that to the supply.

If you've built your clone properly and have a MK42 it should pass calibration ok. I shall aim to keep it up to date - the latest prusa firmware is an RC that merely adds support for the multi material upgrade which I don't have, so i've not merged those changes yet.

I'll wait for a non-RC release. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. Last edited by slippyr4 on Wed Nov 15, am, edited 1 time in total. How are you finding your clone MK42 and which did you buy? The autotronix board is the better board.

I will look into that in the future, but so far the electronics for the extruder multiplexer board isn't publically available and that makes it more trouble than it's worth to try and implement that on a clone.

I just had a quick question, as this is my first time using print controller boards like this. How did you adjust the current of the steppers, did you just measure across the pots to match the values from the Prusa firmware? Make sure you strip the wire well and I'd tin the ends with solder to get the best contact possible. You need to match the current to the steppers - if you suppply more current than a stepper is rated for it will get very very hot and possibly meet an untimely end.

prusa mini clone

Google your stepper motors to find out what their max current is and then set the Vref accordingly. What you set it to varies depending. Who is online Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 0 guests. All times are UTC Imprint.


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